The dessert known as tiramisu is among the most beloved treats worldwide. This classic Italian delicacy is crafted from layers of coffee-soaked sponge, egg yolks, mascarpone cheese, and a dusting of cocoa powder.
The earliest known recipe for this dessert dates back to the 1960s in Treviso, located in the Veneto region of Italy. Over the decades, it has become one of Italy’s most renowned culinary exports.
To explore the origins of this famous dessert and its connection to coffee, I spoke with chefs from Le Beccherie—the restaurant where food historians believe it was first created—and Elisa Urdich, a champion in the Italian coffee competition and the owner of Taste.
What Are The Flavors Of Tiramisu?
This dessert, known as tiramisu, is a layered, cake-like treat made from four primary ingredients: coffee, mascarpone (a creamy Italian cheese), egg yolks, and ladyfinger biscuits (known as savoiardi in Italian).
Often served in small glass dishes, tiramisu showcases its beautiful layers of cream and sponge, topped with a dusting of cocoa powder.
While the recipe for tiramisu typically includes these four or five components, coffee is often regarded as the star ingredient. Its robust flavor contrasts nicely with the lighter tastes of the egg yolks, sponge, and mascarpone. Coffee can be incorporated in various forms, such as instant coffee, a brewed concentrate, or flavored syrup.
Some chefs, however, contend that using non-brewed coffee lacks the intensity needed to shine through the other flavors in tiramisu, emphasizing that brewed coffee is essential for a more pronounced taste.
The Evolution Of Tiramisu Through Time
The roots of this beloved dessert can be traced back to Treviso, located in the Veneto region of Italy, which is also famous for producing exceptional Prosecco. For years, the people of Treviso have enjoyed mixing eggs with coffee, often at breakfast, making it fitting that they are credited with the creation of this sweet treat.
The term “tiramisu” derives from the local dialect “tiramisù,” meaning “pick me up” or “lift me up.” Historically, it has been linked to flirtation since the Renaissance period.
While there has been much discussion about the original creator of the dessert in Treviso, the first official recipe is widely attributed to Le Beccherie. According to legend, pastry chef Roberto Lolì Linguanotto perfected the recipe after two years of experimentation, finalizing it on Christmas Eve in 1969. Le Beccherie continues to prepare their version based on his original recipe, which was initially crafted in a circular form; however, many variations in different shapes can be found throughout Italy and beyond.
The dessert’s significance in Italian cuisine led to the establishment of a dedicated school, the Accademia del Tiramisu, in April 2011. This institution has spent nearly a decade promoting the cultural heritage of the dessert and researching its history.
Globally, the dish has gained immense popularity, particularly in the United States during the 1980s, especially among the Italian-American community in New York City. Its fame soared further when it was featured in the 1993 film Sleepless in Seattle, starring Tom Hanks.
Throughout the late 20th and early 21st centuries, it has continued to thrive in the U.S. and beyond. A 2007 analysis revealed approximately 4.9 million search results for this dessert on Google, far surpassing other traditional Italian sweets like cannoli, which garnered only about 792,000 results.
Today, this delectable treat is a staple on Italian dessert menus and enjoys widespread popularity among dessert lovers around the globe.
A Guide To Picking The Right Coffee For Your Tiramisu
Coffee plays two essential roles in this dessert recipe: it alters the texture of the ladyfinger sponges and balances the sweetness of the mascarpone cream. When the sponge absorbs the coffee, it becomes fluffier and less brittle, resulting in a richer and more indulgent mouthfeel.
Elisa, the 2020 Italian Brewers Cup champion and 2019 Italian Aeropress Champion, notes that the coffee used in the original recipe from Le Beccherie is brewed with a moka pot, a common tool in Italian households.
“Italian coffee culture is deeply rooted in tradition,” Elisa explains. “This is why we favor coffees with rich, bitter flavors, which complement the dessert beautifully.”
For this article, Elisa, along with chefs Manuel Gobbo and Beatrice Simonetti from Le Beccherie, experimented with various coffees to identify the ideal choice for the dessert. Elisa’s café, Taste, located in Treviso, collaborated on finding the right brewing technique and flavor profile.
After extensive testing, they concluded that espresso was the most effective way to highlight the bitterness of the coffee. Elisa emphasizes that this creates a perfect contrast to the creamy mascarpone. She used a dark roast blend from India, Brazil, and Ethiopia, all known for their strong bitter notes.
The selected coffees were either naturally processed or honey processed to enhance complexity, boost sweetness, and minimize acidity. Elisa cautions that coffees with high acidity could overpower the traditional flavors of the dessert.
She explains that excessive acidity can interfere with the dairy elements, leading to undesirable flavors and textures or masking the coffee’s essence entirely.
The Recipe From Le Beccherie
This recipe was created on Christmas Eve in 1969 by the chefs at Le Beccherie, who claim it to be the oldest documented version of the dessert.
The quantities provided are sufficient to fill a large restaurant dish, so you may want to divide the amounts by three to fit a 20cm square dish, which serves about five to six people.
Ingredients
- 12 egg yolks
- ½ kg granulated sugar
- 1 kg mascarpone cheese
- 60 ladyfinger biscuits
- Approximately 4 cups of brewed coffee (enough to soak the biscuits)
- Unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting
Preparation
- Brew the coffee and allow it to cool.
- Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until well combined.
- Mix the mascarpone until smooth in texture.
- Set the cream mixture aside.
- Soak half of the ladyfinger biscuits in the brewed coffee, ensuring they don’t become too soggy.
- Arrange the soaked biscuits in a row in the center of the dish (traditionally, a circular dish is used).
- Spread half of the cream mixture over the biscuits.
- Soak the remaining biscuits in the coffee and place them in the dish.
- Add the rest of the cream mixture on top.
- Dust with sifted cocoa powder.
- Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours to allow the dish to firm up and the flavors to meld.
For those who prefer an alcoholic touch, sweet marsala wine from Sicily is a popular choice for soaking the ladyfinger biscuits. Marsala is made from local Sicilian grapes and often fortified with brandy, providing a rich, nutty flavor.
Other spirits like rum, Curaçao liqueur, triple sec, and Grand Marnier can also be used, but the chefs at Le Beccherie maintain their recipe as alcohol-free.
Creative Twists On The Classic Recipe
Le Beccherie also offers an alternative version of the dessert known as “tiramisù sbagliato,” which translates to “messed-up tiramisu.” This variation uses the same ingredients as the classic recipe but presents them in a “deconstructed” style.
Sara, the maître d’ at Le Beccherie, explains, “In this version, we use the same ingredients but in different textures, and we also incorporate a Prosecco jelly. This allows us to highlight another traditional product from our region: Prosecco.”
Additionally, some recipes substitute egg whites for yolks, resulting in a lighter, mousse-like cream. This contrasts with the thicker, richer texture achieved by combining egg yolks, sugar, and cream.
Whether you favor the traditional recipe or like to put your own spin on it, this Italian dessert is beloved by millions worldwide.
If you’re thinking about making your own version, consider experimenting with different coffee origins and processing techniques. This approach will allow you to explore a range of unique flavors, enhancing the experience of one of Italy’s most cherished indulgent treats.
