In recent years, the global rise in specialty coffee’s popularity has become unmistakable. While the US and Europe continue to dominate as major markets, the Asia-Pacific region is witnessing a rapid surge in demand. Meanwhile, Latin America and Africa are also experiencing steady growth in this niche market.
Specialty coffee is typically defined by a score of 80 or higher on the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale. However, beyond just quality, specialty coffee embodies principles like sustainability, traceability, and transparency.
As its popularity spreads across the globe, the meaning of specialty coffee is evolving. Shaped by diverse cultural and social influences, both industry professionals and consumers are forging unique connections to what specialty coffee represents for them. To explore how this concept differs around the world, I interviewed three professionals in the industry. Keep reading to discover their insights.
Where is specialty coffee most popular?
Although specialty coffee holds a smaller slice of the global market, its rapid growth is undeniable, especially in the US, Europe, and Asia-Pacific.
In the US, coffee consumption surged to a 20-year high in 2022, with 43% of consumers enjoying a specialty coffee the previous day—a 20% rise from January 2021, according to the National Coffee Association. Projections suggest the North American specialty coffee market could expand by 20% annually until 2030, making it the fastest-growing region worldwide.
In Asia-Pacific, the specialty coffee sector is predicted to grow by 15.3% annually until 2030, driven by a rising demand for premium coffee experiences, according to Research and Markets. Meanwhile, Europe remains a powerhouse in specialty coffee consumption, holding around 46.2% of the global market. Its growth is expected to climb by 9% over the next three years.
Analyzing regional trends in specialty coffee consumption
While Europe is a major player in the specialty coffee market, its diverse cultures make it challenging to define the overall popularity of coffee in the region.
Scandinavia, however, stands out as a trailblazer in specialty coffee culture. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, influential figures from Norway, Denmark, Sweden, and Finland popularized light roast single-origin coffee, spreading its appeal worldwide. Nordic countries consistently rank among the highest in coffee consumption per capita. In Norway, with approximately 80 roasteries serving a population of just 5.4 million, it’s clear that specialty coffee is integral to the national culture.
Joanne Berry, Head of Procurement for the green specialty coffee trader Tropiq in Oslo, reflects, “Few places in the world savor coffee like Norwegians do. While there are various ways to enjoy coffee, most people brew it at home.” At family gatherings or social events, brewed coffee is always served—typically black,” she continues. “In Norway, drinking black coffee is so common that it allows for a richer appreciation of the coffee’s true flavors.
What about in producing countries?
In general, specialty coffee consumption is lower in producing countries compared to consuming nations. This disparity stems from the historical dynamics of the global coffee trade, where most marketing efforts focus on consumer markets. However, recent years have seen a notable increase in domestic coffee consumption across several key producing countries. For instance:
– Between 2016 and 2018, Brazil’s specialty coffee market share surged from 6% to 12%, a trend likely amplified by Boram Um’s victory at the 2023 World Barista Championship.
– In 2018, the Colombian specialty coffee market was valued at approximately $1.52 billion, a figure expected to have grown since, especially following Diego Campos’ win as the first Colombian World Barista Champion in 2021.
– According to the International Coffee Organization, Uganda experienced a 2.4% rise in domestic coffee consumption from 2018 to 2021.
– With the gradual increase in African baristas participating in coffee competitions, specialty coffee consumption is anticipated to grow in Uganda and other notable producing countries.
Patrick O’Malley, founder of the International Barista and Coffee Academy in the US, has observed a shift during his travels in Latin America. “In countries like Honduras, Colombia, Brazil, and Mexico, high-end specialty coffee shops are becoming increasingly common,” he notes.
Fabrizio Sención, owner of PalReal in Guadalajara, Mexico, and co-founder of the city’s first coffee shop, 5PM, in 2004, emphasizes how roasters at origin are adapting to rising demand. “Previously, the highest-scoring coffees from Mexico were reserved for export. Now, more locally-grown coffees are being purchased domestically,” he explains.
Industry standards vs cultural differences
The specialty coffee industry is often shaped by benchmarks established in countries like Norway, Japan, Denmark, Australia, South Korea, and New Zealand. However, as the popularity of specialty coffee grows globally, it’s evident that definitions can vary significantly by region.
For instance, in North America and some Asian nations, many consumers lean towards medium or even darker roast profiles. “Some people prefer the traditional ‘strong’ coffee flavor because that’s what they’re accustomed to,” explains Joanne. In Japan, one of the world’s top ten coffee-importing countries, roasters typically opt for slightly darker roasts, with traditional coffee shops, known as kissatens, favoring filter coffee over espresso. Patrick notes, “There are numerous coffee shops in the US, yet many still choose to add milk and sweeteners to their drinks.”
This highlights how, despite seemingly uniform marketing and branding strategies, cultural differences significantly impact consumer preferences. Simultaneously, the Coffee Association’s (SCA) standards and protocols play a crucial role in defining coffee. Recently updated to reduce the “intersubjectivity” in cupping, these processes are essential for grading and assessing the quality of green coffee.
“Objective scoring is vital in the coffee sector,” Joanne asserts. “It helps communicate quality to roasters, producers, and consumers alike.” However, contextualizing these industry standards within various coffee cultures can be challenging. A notable example is the criticism surrounding the SCA Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel, which caters primarily to Western tastes. In response, local coffee experts in countries like Taiwan and Indonesia are creating their own flavor resources to better reflect their unique palates.
How can we account for cultural differences?
While objective definitions of coffee are crucial, Joanne emphasizes that various factors influence purchasing decisions for traders and roasters. “It largely depends on the existing relationship with the producer,” she explains. “It’s about finding interesting coffee and forging partnerships that create value for us and our partners in producing countries.”
Patrick adds that some quantifiable traits of coffee may not significantly benefit professionals in producing countries. “The term ‘specialty’ can be interpreted in many ways,” he notes. “For instance, when it comes to green grading, it’s rare to find coffees with zero primary defects in a 350g sample.” He also points out the lack of concrete guidelines in the SCA’s roasting and brewing standards. Cultural preferences for different roast profiles further complicate personal definitions of coffee. “If you roast coffee darker, can it still be considered specialty? Personally, I would argue not,” Patrick states, suggesting that darker roasts often obscure the coffee’s inherent characteristics.
Innovative Approaches to Defining Specialty Coffee
By merging both objective and subjective criteria, we can explore alternative definitions of coffee. Patrick proposes a Michelin star-like guide for roasteries and coffee shops, which could provide consumers with reliable indicators of where to find coffee while ensuring consistent quality across the supply chain.
However, such initiatives might exacerbate the exclusivity surrounding coffee, potentially alienating some consumers. “We need to create space for diverse market preferences and varying palates, allowing specialty coffee to be defined in ways that resonate with different individuals,” Joanne emphasizes.
Quantifiable and verifiable industry-wide standards are essential for the growth of coffee and shape our expectations of the sector. As specialty coffee gains popularity globally, it’s crucial to stay adaptable and open-minded about our definitions, recognizing how these standards are evolving.
