Positioned on the Indochinese Peninsula, Thailand has emerged as a notable player in the global coffee landscape, ranking among the top 25 coffee-producing nations and holding the title of the third-largest producer in Southeast Asia. The nation, once predominantly recognized for its production of commercial-grade robusta, has seen a marked shift towards cultivating higher quantities of arabica and premium robusta beans.
Evolution of Specialty Coffee in Thailand
Thailand’s journey into coffee cultivation, especially when compared to its Asian counterparts, is relatively young. Arabica coffee was introduced as early as 1849, but it wasn’t until the 1970s that coffee production became a significant commercial endeavor.
This shift was largely due to initiatives launched by King Bhumibol Adulyadej, in collaboration with the United Nations, that encouraged northern communities to replace opium poppy cultivation with alternative crops, including coffee. By 1976, Thailand began exporting coffee, primarily the robusta variety known for its lower quality.
The robusta bean thrives in the southern parts of Thailand, while the northern regions, with their tropical climate, are more conducive to arabica cultivation. Despite robusta’s dominance in production, a surge in demand for high-quality, Thai-grown coffee has seen a shift towards more arabica planting.
Anuwat Kbnampetch, founder and director of Ministry of Roasters and SOCOF Lab in Bangkok, highlights the changing agricultural landscape: “From 2017 to 2019, robusta accounted for around 65% of the coffee agriculture, with arabica at 35%. Fast forward to 2020 through 2022, and the figures adjusted to approximately 59% robusta and 41% arabica.”
Chartree Treelertkul, Director of Peaberry Thai Co. Ltd., also in Bangkok, elaborates on the recent progression of the Thai coffee industry. “While robusta production still outpaces arabica, creating a shortfall for local markets and leading to arabica exports, the last seven years have seen a remarkable transformation. Arabica farmers have begun to refine their agricultural techniques, experimenting with various processing methods, including fermentation and innovative drying techniques, and introducing new coffee plant varietals such as Gesha, Bourbon, Caturra, and Typica.”
The Transformation of Thailand’s Coffee Culture
In its essence, Thailand has long been a nation steeped in tea tradition. However, coffee has steadily made its way into the fabric of Thai beverage culture, with instant varieties gaining popularity alongside traditional coffee drinks such as Café Boran (or Kafae Boran). Originating in the 1940s as an economical option for the general populace, Café Boran is a blend of dark roast robusta and an assortment of other roasted grains:
- Corn
- Brown rice
- Sesame
- Soybeans
- Tamarind seeds
This concoction is typically steeped in hot water using a cotton cloth filter and is often sweetened with condensed or evaporated milk to soften the robust bitterness.
Another favorite is Oliang (or Thai iced coffee), a versatile drink commonly crafted by street vendors that can be tailored with additions like fresh or condensed milk.
Chartree observes a substantial shift in Thailand’s coffee culture over the last few decades. “A pivotal moment occurred 20 to 30 years ago when luxury hotels began importing roasted coffee. This set the stage for global coffee chains such as Starbucks to enter the market, followed by a wave of independent cafés.”
And what of specialty coffee? Nattawat “Natt” Muangsiri, who helms the Espresso Academy Thailand, a Specialty Coffee Association-endorsed training center, brings a global perspective to the conversation. “My experiences as a commercial airline pilot, which have taken me to specialty coffee hotspots across Europe, Scandinavia, and Asia-Pacific countries since 2014, have deepened my appreciation for the craft. While Bangkok has some third wave coffee establishments, they are not as prevalent as in the cities of the countries I’ve visited.”
Anuwat notes that Thailand’s specialty coffee movement began to flourish from 2013 to 2016, with an influx of coffee shops emerging in urban areas like Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and other major cities, a trend that the pandemic further accelerated.
In these specialty coffee venues, according to Chartree, beverages such as filter coffee, lattes, iced drinks, and pour-overs top the order lists. “The number of boutique roasters is on the rise as well, with the market expanding by about 15% to 20% annually,” he points out.
The tastes of Thai coffee enthusiasts are not just confined to high-quality arabica; there’s a burgeoning demand for superior robusta, which must meet rigorous quality standards and protocols, including the absence of primary defects. Reflecting this heightened interest, Thailand has begun hosting more specialized coffee events and competitions.
“We inaugurated the first-ever Siam Coffea Canephora Symposium in 2019,” shares Natt. “Then, in a significant move, the Department of Agriculture permitted national coffee competitors to incorporate robusta in their presentations two years later.”
Enhancing Knowledge and Showcasing Excellence in Thailand’s Coffee Scene
Thailand’s specialty coffee scene is mirroring a global trend, as professionals and enthusiasts increasingly seek educational opportunities and engage in industry events. Piyarat Prakobvanichkul, who leads Coffee Therapy in Thailand, has witnessed the rise of specialty coffee firsthand.
“Specialty coffee has had a presence in Thailand for close to a decade, but it truly started to shine about seven years ago,” Piyarat observes. “There’s a burgeoning interest throughout the nation in understanding the intricacies of specialty coffee, from its processing methods to the standards for tasting and scoring.”
According to Piyarat, the desire to delve into the specialty coffee world has spread far beyond Bangkok, with an uptick in individuals eager to deepen their knowledge about the coffee they consume and produce.
Before 2016, Nat points out, coffee education in Thailand was not widely accessible. “Today, the scene has transformed, with courses and classes accredited by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) and the Coffee Quality Institute garnering significant attention.”
Complementing the educational surge are events that have become cornerstones of the Thai specialty coffee industry. The annual Thailand Coffee Fest, organized by the Specialty Coffee Association of Thailand (SCATH), draws crowds exceeding 10,000. Moreover, SCATH’s Thai Specialty Coffee Awards competition and auction have become pivotal events. The 2023 edition saw 268 coffee samples showcasing diverse processing methods, with 53 coffees scoring 85 or higher and auction bids surpassing THB 3.27 million (approximately US $93,500).
Thai Specialty Coffee Gains Global Recognition
The international specialty coffee community is turning its eyes towards Thai-grown coffee, a trend that gained momentum in 2022 with the Alliance for Coffee Excellence (ACE) and the Cup of Excellence (CoE) introducing the pilot Best of Thailand competition and auction.
Darrin Daniel, formerly at the helm of ACE and CoE and now a partnership manager at Enveritas, notes that while Thailand has its specialty coffee market, its potential on the global stage is just beginning to be tapped. CoE’s initial Sensory Educational Training (SET) course in 2019 laid the groundwork for Thai coffee professionals, culminating in this year’s inaugural CoE Thailand competition and auction. The event’s highest-scoring coffee, earning 91.13 points and fetching a top bid of US $73.30, is a testament to the dedication of Thai coffee farmers.
Anuwat foresees a bright future for Thai-grown fine robusta, predicting market growth over the next five to ten years. He attributes this to a new generation of farmers who are elevating farming practices, management, and post-harvest processes.
Piyarat reflects on Thailand’s culinary reputation, “Worldwide, people have a love affair with Thai cuisine and our local fruits. But now, it’s Thai coffee’s turn to shine on the global stage.”
Positioned on the Indochinese Peninsula, Thailand has emerged as a notable player in the global coffee landscape, ranking among the top 25 coffee-producing nations and holding the title of the third-largest producer in Southeast Asia. The nation, once predominantly recognized for its production of commercial-grade robusta, has seen a marked shift towards cultivating higher quantities of arabica and premium robusta beans.
Evolution of Specialty Coffee in Thailand
Thailand’s journey into coffee cultivation, especially when compared to its Asian counterparts, is relatively young. Arabica coffee was introduced as early as 1849, but it wasn’t until the 1970s that coffee production became a significant commercial endeavor.
This shift was largely due to initiatives launched by King Bhumibol Adulyadej, in collaboration with the United Nations, that encouraged northern communities to replace opium poppy cultivation with alternative crops, including coffee. By 1976, Thailand began exporting coffee, primarily the robusta variety known for its lower quality.
The robusta bean thrives in the southern parts of Thailand, while the northern regions, with their tropical climate, are more conducive to arabica cultivation. Despite robusta’s dominance in production, a surge in demand for high-quality, Thai-grown coffee has seen a shift towards more arabica planting.
Anuwat Kbnampetch, founder and director of Ministry of Roasters and SOCOF Lab in Bangkok, highlights the changing agricultural landscape: “From 2017 to 2019, robusta accounted for around 65% of the coffee agriculture, with arabica at 35%. Fast forward to 2020 through 2022, and the figures adjusted to approximately 59% robusta and 41% arabica.”
Chartree Treelertkul, Director of Peaberry Thai Co. Ltd., also in Bangkok, elaborates on the recent progression of the Thai coffee industry. “While robusta production still outpaces arabica, creating a shortfall for local markets and leading to arabica exports, the last seven years have seen a remarkable transformation. Arabica farmers have begun to refine their agricultural techniques, experimenting with various processing methods, including fermentation and innovative drying techniques, and introducing new coffee plant varietals such as Gesha, Bourbon, Caturra, and Typica.”
The Transformation of Thailand’s Coffee Culture
In its essence, Thailand has long been a nation steeped in tea tradition. However, coffee has steadily made its way into the fabric of Thai beverage culture, with instant varieties gaining popularity alongside traditional coffee drinks such as Café Boran (or Kafae Boran). Originating in the 1940s as an economical option for the general populace, Café Boran is a blend of dark roast robusta and an assortment of other roasted grains:
- Corn
- Brown rice
- Sesame
- Soybeans
- Tamarind seeds
This concoction is typically steeped in hot water using a cotton cloth filter and is often sweetened with condensed or evaporated milk to soften the robust bitterness.
Another favorite is Oliang (or Thai iced coffee), a versatile drink commonly crafted by street vendors that can be tailored with additions like fresh or condensed milk.
Chartree observes a substantial shift in Thailand’s coffee culture over the last few decades. “A pivotal moment occurred 20 to 30 years ago when luxury hotels began importing roasted coffee. This set the stage for global coffee chains such as Starbucks to enter the market, followed by a wave of independent cafés.”
And what of specialty coffee? Nattawat “Natt” Muangsiri, who helms the Espresso Academy Thailand, a Specialty Coffee Association-endorsed training center, brings a global perspective to the conversation. “My experiences as a commercial airline pilot, which have taken me to specialty coffee hotspots across Europe, Scandinavia, and Asia-Pacific countries since 2014, have deepened my appreciation for the craft. While Bangkok has some third wave coffee establishments, they are not as prevalent as in the cities of the countries I’ve visited.”
Anuwat notes that Thailand’s specialty coffee movement began to flourish from 2013 to 2016, with an influx of coffee shops emerging in urban areas like Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and other major cities, a trend that the pandemic further accelerated.
In these specialty coffee venues, according to Chartree, beverages such as filter coffee, lattes, iced drinks, and pour-overs top the order lists. “The number of boutique roasters is on the rise as well, with the market expanding by about 15% to 20% annually,” he points out.
The tastes of Thai coffee enthusiasts are not just confined to high-quality arabica; there’s a burgeoning demand for superior robusta, which must meet rigorous quality standards and protocols, including the absence of primary defects. Reflecting this heightened interest, Thailand has begun hosting more specialized coffee events and competitions.
“We inaugurated the first-ever Siam Coffea Canephora Symposium in 2019,” shares Natt. “Then, in a significant move, the Department of Agriculture permitted national coffee competitors to incorporate robusta in their presentations two years later.”
Enhancing Knowledge and Showcasing Excellence in Thailand’s Coffee Scene
Thailand’s specialty coffee scene is mirroring a global trend, as professionals and enthusiasts increasingly seek educational opportunities and engage in industry events. Piyarat Prakobvanichkul, who leads Coffee Therapy in Thailand, has witnessed the rise of specialty coffee firsthand.
“Specialty coffee has had a presence in Thailand for close to a decade, but it truly started to shine about seven years ago,” Piyarat observes. “There’s a burgeoning interest throughout the nation in understanding the intricacies of specialty coffee, from its processing methods to the standards for tasting and scoring.”
According to Piyarat, the desire to delve into the specialty coffee world has spread far beyond Bangkok, with an uptick in individuals eager to deepen their knowledge about the coffee they consume and produce.
Before 2016, Nat points out, coffee education in Thailand was not widely accessible. “Today, the scene has transformed, with courses and classes accredited by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) and the Coffee Quality Institute garnering significant attention.”
Complementing the educational surge are events that have become cornerstones of the Thai specialty coffee industry. The annual Thailand Coffee Fest, organized by the Specialty Coffee Association of Thailand (SCATH), draws crowds exceeding 10,000. Moreover, SCATH’s Thai Specialty Coffee Awards competition and auction have become pivotal events. The 2023 edition saw 268 coffee samples showcasing diverse processing methods, with 53 coffees scoring 85 or higher and auction bids surpassing THB 3.27 million (approximately US $93,500).
Thai Specialty Coffee Gains Global Recognition
The international specialty coffee community is turning its eyes towards Thai-grown coffee, a trend that gained momentum in 2022 with the Alliance for Coffee Excellence (ACE) and the Cup of Excellence (CoE) introducing the pilot Best of Thailand competition and auction.
Darrin Daniel, formerly at the helm of ACE and CoE and now a partnership manager at Enveritas, notes that while Thailand has its specialty coffee market, its potential on the global stage is just beginning to be tapped. CoE’s initial Sensory Educational Training (SET) course in 2019 laid the groundwork for Thai coffee professionals, culminating in this year’s inaugural CoE Thailand competition and auction. The event’s highest-scoring coffee, earning 91.13 points and fetching a top bid of US $73.30, is a testament to the dedication of Thai coffee farmers.
Anuwat foresees a bright future for Thai-grown fine robusta, predicting market growth over the next five to ten years. He attributes this to a new generation of farmers who are elevating farming practices, management, and post-harvest processes.
Piyarat reflects on Thailand’s culinary reputation, “Worldwide, people have a love affair with Thai cuisine and our local fruits. But now, it’s Thai coffee’s turn to shine on the global stage.”
The ascent of Thailand’s coffee production, characterized by superior arabica and robusta beans, coupled with a vibrant specialty coffee movement, paints an optimistic picture for the nation’s coffee future.
Natt envisions a broader international footprint for Thai coffee, expressing, “I’m eager to witness a surge in Thai coffee’s presence on the global market and its inclusion in more international competitions.”
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