Exploring Coffee Origins: Unveiling the Flavors of Mexico

Vietnamese Coffee Exporter
Coffee Origins

In the lush, mountainous landscapes of Mexico, small farms predominantly managed by indigenous producers cultivate an often-overlooked treasure: Mexican coffee.

While many lists of renowned coffee origins frequently exclude Mexico, this country has much to boast about. Its coffees are known for their unique and fruity flavor profiles, contribute positively to social and environmental well-being, and boast a deep-rooted coffee production history.

Mexico’s Coffee Yield: What’s the Amount?

Coffee is cultivated across 16 states in Mexico, with the majority of the country’s 711,000 hectares (as of 2018) located in the southern regions.

The journey of coffee in Mexico began in the late 1700s when it was planted on farms owned by Europeans, relying heavily on indigenous Mexican labor. The early 20th century brought a revolution that sparked agrarian land reform, shifting the agricultural landscape.

Today, Mexican farms differ significantly from the expansive plantations of the past. According to the latest agricultural census, there are 515,000 coffee producers, 85% of whom are indigenous Mexicans, with 95% managing less than three hectares. Indigenous and smallholder producers are among the most vulnerable in the coffee sector, but the Mexican government is partnering with the National Institute of the Indigenous Peoples (INPI) to provide support.

Much of the country’s coffee production is organized through cooperatives. Interestingly, Mexico is one of the largest exporters of organic-certified coffee in the world, with up to 8% of producers engaged in organic cultivation, as reported by the Department of Agriculture and Rural Development (SADER). Understanding this connection requires a look back nearly 40 years.

In 1973, the Mexican government established the national coffee institute, INMECAFE, recognizing the crop’s potential to foster rural development. By the mid-1980s, coffee emerged as Mexico’s most valuable export crop, contributing 35% to the country’s total agricultural output. Production peaked at 440,000 tonnes of green coffee by 1990.

However, the collapse of the International Coffee Agreement eliminated the price floor for coffee, leading to the closure of INMECAFE. In its place, cooperatives emerged, supporting indigenous producers and promoting organic coffee cultivation. In the most recent season (2018/19), Mexico exported 2.6 million 60-kilo bags of coffee. While this accounts for less than 1% of global coffee exports, it still positions Mexico as the ninth-largest coffee exporter in the world.

What are the characteristics of Mexican coffee origins?

Mexican coffees are typically characterized by their lighter body and mild flavor profile, featuring subtle notes. They have great potential for excellence; for instance, six coffees exceeded the 90-point mark in the 2019 Cup of Excellence. Notably, Cruz José Arguello Miceli’s Gesha scored an impressive 93.07 points and was sold for $35.40 per pound (green). Judges highlighted its notes of jasmine, bergamot, lemongrass, and vanilla, describing it as exceptionally sweet with a buttery mouthfeel.

The majority of coffee grown in Mexico is shade-grown Arabica, with Robusta constituting only 3–4% of the total production. Approximately 35% of Mexico’s coffee is cultivated at elevations of 900 meters above sea level (m.a.s.l.), which, due to the country’s relatively cooler climate, creates ideal conditions for producing high-quality beans.

As noted by Edy Hidalgo Espinosa, Coordinator for PECA and Sustainability in Mexico at Caravela Coffee, “Coffees are processed the same way across the country. In Mexico, 90% of the coffee undergoes washed processing, while the remaining 10% employs methods such as honey and natural processing.” While processing methods may be consistent nationwide, significant differences emerge in the sensory profiles of the coffees and the cultivation practices of the producers.

The Three Key Coffee Regions of Mexico

Chiapas, Oaxaca, and Veracruz: Each of these coffee regions showcases a unique character in their brews, but it’s more than just the flavor in your cup. Edy emphasizes, “What makes these three coffee-producing states special is their technical focus on farming practices.”

Let’s explore each region in detail.

Veracruz

Stretching along the Gulf of Mexico, the elongated state of Veracruz holds the distinction of being the first in Mexico to plant coffee trees back in the 18th century.

The finest coffees in Veracruz are grown in the inland mountains at elevations of 1,100 to 1,600 meters above sea level (m.a.s.l.). Edy describes their flavor profile as featuring “light red fruits, blueberries, caramel, and panela,” along with a delicate nature, bright acidity, and a juicy, sweet-sour finish.

Of the three states, Veracruz is the most technologically advanced, boasting more disease-resistant coffee varieties and controlled sowing practices. Edy notes that some producers take great care to plant trees one meter apart, with a maximum of 5,000 plants per hectare.

Chiapas

Bordering Guatemala, Chiapas is known for producing the highest volume of coffee in Mexico, contributing 40% to the country’s total yield. The best coffees grow at altitudes ranging from 1,300 to 1,700 m.a.s.l.

While many indigenous Mexicans inhabit Chiapas, it is also the poorest state in the country, with a GDP per capita of $7,249 as of 2016. Chiapas stands out from Veracruz due to its unique location and terroir. Edy points out that while cultivation techniques and varieties may be similar between the two states, Chiapas coffees typically exhibit flavors of chocolate, bitterness, nuts, citrus, and lemon, along with a full-bodied and lingering finish.

Oaxaca

Situated like a puzzle piece between Veracruz to the north and Chiapas to the south, with the Pacific Ocean to its west, Oaxaca’s coffee farms are usually located at altitudes of 900 to 1,650 m.a.s.l. Although it is the least technologically advanced of Mexico’s main coffee-producing regions, Edy notes that coffees from Oaxaca are distinctive and highly sought after. They tend to feature sweet caramel notes, hints of yellow fruits, orange acidity, a creamy body, and floral undertones.

Many producers in Oaxaca prefer traditional cultivation methods over modernization. Some farms, operating since the 1940s, are over 80 years old, and Edy estimates that about 70% of the varieties grown are indigenous to the region. One notable variety is Pluma Hidalgo, a 19th-century offshoot of Typica, cultivated by displaced indigenous farmers in the mid-1800s. There are ongoing efforts to secure Denomination of Origin status for Oaxacan Pluma Hidalgo.

Challenges and Solutions Facing Mexico’s Coffee Industry

One of the significant challenges facing Mexico’s coffee industry is the recent drop in coffee prices. On average, farmers may receive only $98 for 45 kg of green Arabica cof

With producers struggling to achieve profitability, they lack the resources needed to invest in their farms, which hampers their ability to withstand adverse weather conditions and diseases. The coffee price crisis of 2018 caused prices to plummet, and they have yet to recover. Alarmingly, the effects of low pric In 2012, an outbreak of coffee leaf rust swept through Mexican coffee farms, with the fungus damaging coffee trees and diminishing both harvest size and quality. This outbreak had a lasting effect, as production dropped from 4.5 million bags in 2012 to just 2.2 mil

Edy explains that to counteract low prices, producers began replacing older trees with higher-yielding varieties, which, however, require more sunlight and nutrients. “This, combined with the introduction of herbicides into the Mexican countryside, has led to significant soil erosion, particularly since the slopes of Mexican coffee farms can range from 10% to 80%,” he adds. The government has stepped in to assist farmers by providing pest-resistant coffee varieties such as Oro Azteca, Marsellesa, and Costa Rica 95. They have also supported producer groups in obtaining price-enhancing certifications like Fair Trade and Rainforest Alliance.

However, these initiatives alone are insufficient. Edy emphasizes the necessity of paying producers according to the quality of their coffee, stating, “This allows producers to achieve significantly better prices.” Technical assistance plays a crucial role, especially given the challenges of soil erosion and Mexico’s history of organic production coupled with low productivity per hectare. Prioritizing environmental care not only appeals to sustainability-minded coffee consumers and justifies higher price points but also equips farms to better withstand future environmental shocks and diseases.

Edy oversees Caravela Coffee’s PECA initiative, which organizes workshops to aid producers in adopting “various practices for environmental improvement and soil conservation.” The focus is on fostering environmental stewardship while helping producers enhance their yields to boost their incomes.

He also highlights the importance of collaborating with local varieties that are well-suited to the region’s terroir. Indigenous varieties typically require less intervention, resulting in reduced labor for producers and minimal environmental impact. On a positive note, Mexico’s coffee industry is showing signs of recovery, with exports rising by 57% from 2015 to 2018. By this time, production had once again surpassed 4 million bags.

Mexico is a vibrant and diverse coffee region. In Veracruz and Chiapas, you’ll encounter producers who are adopting modern farming techniques while delivering captivating flavors for discerning coffee enthusiasts. At the same time, you’ll meet farmers who take pride in their heritage and the unique, centuries-old coffee varieties they cultivate. Regardless of where you are, there are producers eager to learn how to enhance their sustainability practices and improve the quality of their coffee. Whether your passion lies in heritage, flavor exploration, or environmentally conscious coffee, Mexico offers a wealth of all three.

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Helena Coffee Vietnam

Helena Coffee Processing & Export in Vietnam | Helena., JSC, which was established in 2016, is a Vietnamese coffee exporter, manufacturer & supplier. We provide the most prevalent varieties of coffee grown in Vietnam’s renowned producing regions.