The term “terroir” is becoming increasingly common in coffee discussions. But what exactly does this intriguing word signify? How does it impact the flavor of our coffee? And why is it important for coffee enthusiasts, baristas, roasters, producers, and others in the industry to pay attention?
To explore these questions, I spoke with several experts from both the coffee and wine sectors. Keep reading to uncover the insights I gathered.
Defining Terroir: What Does It Mean?
Let’s begin with the fundamentals. “Terroir” is a French term, most commonly associated with wine, but its relevance extends to other agricultural products like coffee. According to Pamela A. Villablanca Núñez from the Latinamerican Specialty Alliance and Bee Shop, the word “literally refers to soil, or earth, and everything related to it.”
However, when applied to agriculture, the concept becomes more intricate. Pamela describes terroir as the “unique combination of soil composition, temperature, rainfall, micro-, meso-, and macroclimates, along with the specific farming practices used.”
Keith Pech from Damarli Estate in Panama agrees, emphasizing that involves much more than just the soil and climate. It includes the entire environment where coffee is cultivated, from the landscape to the people and the local expertise.
The Importance of Terroir: Why It Matters
According to Stefano Biscotto of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, terroir “enhances the unique traits of a particular variety.”
Since every is distinct, this means that it influences those traits in diverse ways. Essentially, is what makes a Colombian coffee taste different from one grown in Brazil, Ethiopia, or Indonesia.
For example, if you plant the same coffee variety—like Villa Sarchi—at 1,400 meters above sea level in Costa Rica and at 1,900 meters above sea level in Panama, the flavors will differ. Even though these neighboring countries are geographically close, the higher elevation in Panama leads to a cooler climate, likely resulting in a with greater acidity and sweetness.
For coffee drinkers, influences the flavor of the brewed . However, for roasters and producers, its impact goes much deeper. Roasters must craft roast profiles that account not only for the beans’ potential flavors and aromas but also their molecular structure, which is shaped by terroir.
Producers, on the other hand, must adapt their farming and processing techniques (both part of terroir) to suit the specific geography, climate, and available resources.
Thiago Borba of Burgeon Specialty Coffee Trading emphasizes that “understandingis crucial before even planting seeds.” He explains that this knowledge “guides decisions on planting systems” and helps select the best varietals to ensure quality, cost efficiency, pest resistance, and productivity.
Optimal Terroir” vs. “Challenging Terroir
The terms “good” and “bad” are often subjective, no matter the topic. However, phrases like “this is the perfect terroir” or “this coffee is high-quality because of its terroir” are commonly used.
Pamela explains that “there’s no such thing as bad terroir, but rather varieties that are more suited to a specific terroir.”
Keith shares a similar view but ties it to quality. He points out that producing exceptional coffee can be more challenging in certain regions and countries. Using the cup scoring system, where coffees are graded out of 100, specialty coffees score above 80, and those above 90 are rare and often very expensive.
Certain countries have built stronger reputations in the specialty coffee world, such as Costa Rica, Colombia, and Ethiopia, known for their high-quality coffee. Brazil and Indonesia, on the other hand, are more often associated with affordable options.
Yet this doesn’t mean fully limits potential. For instance, in the 2017 Cup of Excellence, Brazil saw nine natural and pulped natural coffees score 90+ points, showcasing its ability to produce high-scoring coffees despite perceptions.
Some regions may be more suited to certain varieties, flavors, or cup scores, but that doesn’t make it impossible to grow exceptional coffee in other areas.
Three Essential Elements of Terroir
Now that we understand how influences specific characteristics of varieties and that some s are better suited for certain types, we can explore what makes a ideal for cultivating high-quality specialty coffee.
My interviews revealed three crucial factors:
1. **Soil**
Given that translates to “the earth,” it’s no surprise that soil ranks high on the list. Thiago explains that the minerals present in the soil “can impact the body and acidity of the beans.” Keith adds that volcanic soil is particularly beneficial for coffee cultivation due to its rich nutrient content, including magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and zinc, which are vital for plant growth.
Furthermore, Keith notes that volcanic soil offers excellent drainage. Thiago elaborates, stating that “soil with good aeration and higher organic matter content ensures better water retention during rainy seasons, creating reserves for drier periods.” This directly influences how plants absorb nutrients and minerals.
2. **Climate**
Coffee is primarily grown within a region known as “the bean belt,” which encircles the globe near the equator, extending as far north as Mexico and Myanmar and as far south as Brazil and Tanzania.
Within this bean belt, there are numerous climates—both macro and micro. Coffee professionals often refer to a coffee’s microclimate, which indicates a small area with a climate noticeably different from its surroundings, often due to geographical features like sheltered valleys.
Keith emphasizes the need for distinct dry and rainy seasons. He explains, “[The] rainy season is crucial for the growth of the plants, allowing the fruits to develop and the trees to absorb nutrients.” However, rain during harvest can be detrimental, as it may damage the cherries and hinder drying. Additionally, a dry season is essential for the following harvest because it promotes flowering, necessary for new coffee cherries.
3. **Elevation**
All of my interviewees pointed out the importance of elevation or altitude. Keith notes, “The higher you go, generally the sweeter and higher quality the fruits will be. This is due to increased acidity, similar to wine.”
However, this relationship is more about climate than simply elevation. Keith clarifies, “It’s really about the weather and temperature. The cooler atmosphere enhances acidity in both wine and .”
Thiago adds that this “directly affects the maturation process of the fruit. Fruits that develop more slowly tend to have higher sugar concentrations, resulting in greater complexity and density.”
Since elevation is largely influenced by temperature, it’s also crucial to consider factors such as proximity to the equator and wind patterns. While elevation can serve as a useful metric for comparing two farms within the same region, it is less effective when comparing coffees from different countries, such as Ecuador and Mexico or Yemen and Kenya.
Terroir: The Key Factor in Coffee Quality?
“In wine,” Stefano explains, “terroir is everything.
“When discussing , it’s like mother nature is speaking to you. If you exert too much control over the wine, you risk overshadowing the qualities that nature provides.” He notes that this perspective has contributed to the recent rise of the “natural wine” movement, where human intervention in the winemaking process is kept to a minimum.
But does the same apply to coffee? Is the defining factor?
“Processing,” Keith asserts, “is, in my opinion, more critical than… If done correctly, processing can definitely surpass the influence of terroir.” This refers to the methods used to separate coffee seeds, or beans, from the cherry pulp. The way coffee is harvested, fermented, dried, and stored can introduce flavors—some beneficial and others detrimental. This process can enhance or diminish the overall quality of the .
Thiago emphasizes, “While can enhance quality, it doesn’t guarantee a great cup on its own. Effective harvest management is essential—from selecting the right planting area to the drying process.”
As we’ve noted, local processing techniques can be considered part of. For instance, Brazil is renowned for its natural and pulped natural methods, which enhance sweetness and body due to the country’s dry climate. In contrast, Kenya is famous for its double-washed processing, an exceptionally clean method that preserves the coffee’s natural flavor profile without adding extra flavors.
However, there are times when a producer might decide to experiment with processing methods or diverge from local customs. Such choices fall outside the scope of terroir.
And as Pamela points out, “The human element is crucial in creating an exceptional final cup.
Addressing Climate Change: What’s Next?
The significance of terroir may be debated, but its importance is undeniable. This reality makes climate change a daunting challenge for many producers. As Stefano notes, “You cannot discuss terroir without addressing climate change.”
He points out that “climate change is significantly impacting” Rising temperatures mean that the cooler climates ideal for producing sweeter, more acidic coffees are shifting.
“People are increasingly moving to higher elevations… to preserve that acidity and freshness,” he explains. He also mentions that many wine producers are adapting by transitioning to varieties that are better suited for warmer conditions.
Over 100 million people worldwide rely on coffee for their livelihoods. However, researchers predict that by 2050, the area suitable for coffee cultivation could decrease by 50%.
“Where will [producers] be in 10 years?” Stefano wonders. “ is currently evolving alongside climate change.”
What implications does this have for coffee, wine, and other crops like cacao? How much higher can we go? And how significant is the human factor in maintaining product quality amidst these changes in ?
