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Croatian Coffee Culture: A Journey to Specialty

Croatian Coffee- le cafe

Croatian Coffee- le cafe

Croatians have a deep-rooted love affair with coffee. Forget the typical café on every corner—in Croatia, whole streets are dedicated to café bars. Locals fill these spots, looking perfectly at ease as they savor their coffee, sometimes accompanied by a cigarette, whether alone or with friends. Company isn’t essential; the joy of coffee is a pleasure to be savored, either way.

A Tradition Steeped in Old-World Charm

Croatia’s coffee culture stands apart, shaped by centuries of unique influences. It’s not Italian, nor Turkish, nor strictly Austro-Hungarian; instead, it’s a rich blend of all three traditions. But how did this distinctive fusion come to be?

The Roots of Turkish Coffee in Croatian Culture

The story of Croatian coffee culture actually begins with the Ottoman Empire. Starting in 1443, the Ottomans repeatedly attempted to conquer the region, engaging in conflicts with the forerunners of modern Croatia for over a century. Out of this lengthy historical exchange, Turkish coffee found its way into Croatian life, bringing along a ritual that involved socializing, exchanging news, or conducting business over a shared pot of coffee.

Today, Turkish-style coffee remains a beloved tradition in Croatian homes, especially when guests are over. The classic brewing method is still preferred, prepared in the time-honored čezve—a long-handled, narrow-spouted pot. The coffee itself is typically a finely ground, medium-roast 100% Arabica sourced from Brazil’s Minas region, known for its depth and smoothness.

While many of the customs endure, some have evolved over time. Originally, the coffeehouse experience was reserved for men, in line with Ottoman practices. However, after the French Revolution, Croatian women began frequenting coffeehouses as well. Until fairly recently, Croatian villagers roasted their own beans over an open fire and hand-milled them using a traditional brass grinder—a laborious task often assigned to children.

The Opulent Coffee Culture of the Austro-Hungarian Era

As we move into the 18th century, the Austro-Hungarian era marked a transformative period for coffee culture, turning it into a lavish and indulgent experience. This was the age of the kavana, or coffee palaces, where the social elite gathered to savor their brews. The first Croatian kavana opened its doors in 1748 in Ban Jelacic Square, Zagreb, offering not only coffee but also tea and chocolate. These establishments were characterized by a delightful pairing of coffee with exquisite cakes, desserts, and sweets, reflecting the luxury of the time.

Coffee during this period was imported from Holland, the epicenter of Europe’s food and spice trade, ensuring that patrons enjoyed high-quality brews. Each town boasted its own Gradska Kavana, or town café, contributing to the rich tapestry of social life.

Today, remnants of the kavana tradition can still be experienced in cities like Zagreb, Split, Drnis, and Dubrovnik, though the ambiance has evolved. A notable revival can be found at Moderato Cantabile in Šibenik, which pays homage to the historical kavana. Similarly, the Johann Franck kavana in Zagreb has been beautifully restored, capturing the essence of traditional coffee houses while also offering a menu of food and alcoholic beverages, blending the old with the new in Croatia’s vibrant café culture.

Transforming Coffee Rituals: The Influence of Italian Espresso

The latest chapter in Croatia’s coffee evolution is marked by the arrival of Italian espresso. However, this shift was not a one-way street; the Italian espresso culture also found itself adapting to Croatian preferences. While Italians are known for their swift consumption of espresso, Croatians, with their rich tradition of elevating coffee into a social event, embraced a different approach.

In Croatia, espresso became a cherished ritual, interwoven with leisurely conversations among friends, partners, and colleagues. The act of saying “let’s go for coffee” carries a weight far beyond mere beverage consumption; it signifies a shared experience and a chance to connect, akin to “let’s get things done” rather than just taking a break. This unique blend of Italian influence and Croatian customs has redefined how espresso is enjoyed, emphasizing the social bonds forged over each cup.

Dominance of Franck in Croatia’s Coffee Market

Franck, established in Zagreb in 1892, has been a cornerstone in Croatia’s coffee industry, especially in the ground coffee segment. By 2022, Franck reported an 8% growth in sales compared to the same period in 2021, underscoring its robust market presence.

The brand’s strong foothold is evident in various segments:

Coffee Culture Beyond the Home

When Croatians enjoy coffee out, they typically opt for espresso-based beverages, showcasing a preference for high-quality 100% Arabica beans roasted specifically for espresso extraction. The variety of drinks available reflects a rich coffee culture, with milk-based options leading the pack. Among the favorites, macchiatos and cappuccinos stand out, but the true star is kava s mlijekom, or “coffee with milk.” This beloved drink is akin to a flat white, usually prepared with warm milk, providing a creamy and satisfying experience.

During the hot summer months, many people also enjoy a refreshing cold milk version, making it a versatile choice year-round. Regular patrons often personalize their orders, favoring unique variations of these classic drinks, which further enriches the vibrant coffee scene in Croatia.

Move Over—Specialty Coffee Is Here

In the last decade, we’ve seen the latest evolution of Croatian coffee culture: the slow emergence of specialty coffee. The movement started in Croatia’s capital Zagreb, arguably with Nik Orosi, Croatia’s first ever Barista Champion and holder of the Croatian Barista Championship titles for 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2013. Nik opened Croatia’s first specialty cafe and roastery, Eliscaffe, in the heart of Zagreb in 2005. He has also begun roasting in Belgrade.

Matija Hrkac is a key figure in advancing the specialty coffee scene in Croatia. His journey began at Eliscaffe, and he quickly made a name for himself by becoming the Croatian Barista Champion in 2010, 2011, and 2012. His skills took him to the global stage, where he placed seventh at the 2012 World Barista Championship under the guidance of Australian barista coach Paul Arnephy.

A few years ago, Hrkac partnered with Matija Belkovic to launch their own specialty roastery, Cogito Coffee Roasters. Belkovic, an early advocate for specialty coffee, imported samples from the US and stocked Eliscaffe, while also managing his café, Cafe U Dvoristu. His passion for roasting led to the creation of Cogito alongside Hrkac, and together they’ve built a robust business, quickly acquiring ten clients in just over a year. They recently opened a Cogito café in Zagreb to showcase their roasts and provide barista training to aspiring coffee professionals, aiming for World Barista Championship standards.

With such rapid achievements among specialty coffee pioneers and a growing interest fostered through training and competitions, it’s clear that specialty coffee is solidifying its place in Croatian culture. While Eliscaffe, Cogito, and Cafe U Dvoristu lead the charge, other cafés, like Giro Espresso in Šibenik and Cukarin in Split, are also adopting specialty coffee principles. Although some may have contracts with mainstream coffee suppliers, they still prioritize training their baristas to deliver consistently excellent coffee.

Kudos to cafés that champion locally roasted specialty coffee, such as Express Bar, pushing forward the third wave of coffee culture. Customers can now enjoy simplified menus focused on high-quality coffee, with a commitment to the meticulous preparation of each drink. The emphasis is squarely on coffee—eschewing juices, hot chocolates, and alcohol in favor of pure, expertly crafted brews.

New brewing methods like Chemex and AeroPress are gaining traction, and specialty coffee bars are dedicated to educating consumers about the importance of freshly roasted and prepared coffee. Despite Croatia’s relatively small population of around 4.5 million, the abundance of café bars and rich coffee culture position it as a potential coffee destination on the global map.

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